Sunday, April 28, 2024

Marie-Anne Velasco of Nudo House Went from Banking to Ramen

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I tried the coconut cream and Thai coffee swirl, and the combo was to die for. Thick slices of king oyster mushrooms are silken, fleshy and gilded with garlic oil that forms shimmery droplets on the broth's surface. Fermented bamboo shoots give a punch of funk, and a halved, soft-boiled egg with a yolk that refuses to commit to just one state of matter bobs in the luxurious liquid. Add to this braised bok choy and perfectly springy ramen noodles and you've got no mere soup. The broth’s flavor is roast chicken distilled and shot through with the summery sweetness of black garlic.

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Each ramen was topped with half of a marinated boiled egg, laver, sliced green onions, and sesame seeds. Despite this similarity, each noodle dish had unique aspects related to their title. Three different widths of noodles were present, and I noted that those noodles were packaged, since I could see the packages when walking in. The restaurant's comfortable dining room has the space to accommodate all the would-be slurpers.

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A mix of individual and communal tables dot the warmly lit space, which is decorated with photos from the owners' ramen research as well as Voltron posters. The open kitchen takes up the entire length of one side of the room; in it, pots of simmering broth send up their steam like a siren song to hungry patrons. Unlike the delicate mushroom or veggie broths that announce their presence with a whisper, the base of the "Shroomed Out" is a deep, throaty bellow.

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Cooked for twenty hours, the broth is so savory, it's as if the entire essence of pork is distilled into one spoonful. A single sheet of nori, a half of that custard-like egg, some green onions and sesame seeds and a heap of curly noodles complete the package that makes you realize why people became obsessed with ramen in the first place. Before you leave, be sure to check out their soft serve ice creams. I'm not usually one to go for dessert after a hearty noodle meal, but Nudo House puts their own spin on soft serve.

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My expectations for the ramen were not very high, as I knew that St. Louis did not have great Asian cuisine, and that the ramen could never be as authentic as when I ate it in Tokyo. During my visits, they were mango and a blend of coconut and the purple yam called ube. At the counter employee’s urging, I ordered the two flavors swirled together in vivid spirals of orange and purple. I dwell on the ramen over Nudo House’s pho because the latter will likely be familiar to the many of you who have eaten at Mai Lee over the years. The beef pho ($10) is intensely aromatic, the floral perfume and the bite of onion and scallion giving way to its long-simmered beef essence.

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There are other noteworthy items at Nudo House, not the least of which is a fun Vietnamese riff on the French dip. Called the "Bánh Mì Pho Dip," the dish pairs a beef-laden version of the classic baguette with a side of Tran's famous pho broth. Even though the Spring Roll had let me down, I was still looking forward to trying the Bahn Mi.

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One of 24 waterfront and showcase locations, Chart House is famous for its dazzling views, unique cuisine, exceptional service and incredible happy hour. This ramen was vegetarian, so it was very different from the traditional pork based broth that I was accustomed to. Although I would choose other options over this ramen, it is a great alternative to those who enjoy ramen but are vegetarian. The O’Miso Spicy ramen ($12) replaces the tonkotsu’s shoyu with umami-laden miso and laces the broth with a sneakily slow-building chile heat. Vegetarians or anyone who wants a break from all this meat talk can opt for the mushroom-based Shroomed Out ($12) ramen. Soy milk is the unexpected ingredient giving this broth its creaminess.

The past decade's anticipated ramen boom in St. Louis ended up more like a ramen boomlet, if even that. (If I am touchy on the subject, it's because I am still mourning gone-too-soon Vista Ramen.) Call it whatever you like, at least the boom-that-wasn't brought us Marie-Anne Velasco and Qui Tran's Nudo House. Here you will find excellent tonkotsu, chicken paitan and mushroom ramen. If not a boomlet, Nudo House now boasts two locations, the second of which opened in 2019 in the Delmar Loop. Particularly noteworthy is the "Pho Shizzle," which combines pork, shrimp, beef and glass noodles with the sweet and aromatic beef liquid.

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The heart of the home boasts a gourmet kitchen and a formal dining room. The primary suite is a true retreat, complete with its own sitting room and a generously sized walk-in closet, a lavish bathroom with a sauna for unwinding. Throughout the property, meticulous attention to detail and contemporary architectural design are evident with a steam room, elevator and three-car garage. Not even five minutes after sitting down, all four of the noodles came to our table. I was pleasantly surprised by the speed of the food, being one who is not patient. She studied finance and linguistics in college, but after traveling through Asia, she decided what she really wanted to do was attend culinary school.

With all the aspects that one would expect a ramen to have, this bowl of noodles was the option for those who aren’t feeling too adventurous and would like the most classic ramen. Besides the fact that the broth was a little salty, the Classic Nudo was a very average ramen with nothing that especially stood out positively or negatively. Nudo House was founded by executive chef Marie-Anne Velasco and Qui Tran, son of Lee Tran, who founded the popular Vietnamese restaurant, Mai Lee. Having heard positive reviews on this restaurant, I was intrigued about how well the restaurant owner, coming from Vietnamese descent, would be able to make Japanese ramen. I was excited to try this new ramen restaurant, as I am a large fan of the noodles and quite experienced in eating them.

I had the opportunity to chat with co-owner Qui Tran, and it's obvious that Nudo House is the result of perseverance and heart. Located in Creve Coeur, the restaurant has only been open for about six months, but has already been a smashing success. Nudo House has been packed since the day it opened — even before that, in fact, as its R&D pop-ups were regularly one of the town's hottest tickets. Although the hoisin-peanut sauce that accompanied it was satisfying, the roll itself was a little skimpy.

The color red popped out to me as the chairs, part of the ceiling and the staff all donned the same color. The restaurant used the space it had efficiently; the kitchen was open where diners would be able to get a glimpse of the several chefs cooking. Collections of photos of Qui Tran and his family cooking were displayed all throughout the walls, giving the restaurant a personal touch. The interior design of the restaurant really caught my eye and was one of my favorite parts of the restaurant. New menu items are constantly being added and tested out, due to the creative freedom that the chefs have in the kitchen.

Behind the restaurant's fast-casual model is a decidedly slow-food ethos, with broths and meats simmering and marinating for days to maximize flavor. The restaurant's signature "Classic Nudo" shows how much beauty can come from taking so much time and care with food. Tender slices of pork belly marinate for two days and are then braised before they are allowed to grace the masterful pork tonkatsu broth.

How co-owners Qui Tran and Marie-Anne Velasco can coax such richness from plant-based ingredients blows my mind. Ostensibly, the soy milk gives the broth its viscosity, but if you or I were to combine this special ingredient with the same components, it would be nothing like what these masters have created. For years, the pair has painstakingly researched, studied, traveled and toiled to perfect their art with the sort of obsessive fastidiousness that propelled da Vinci to create Mona Lisa's smile. Lake Charles - Dining on the Golf Course Situated inside of the Golden Nugget Hotel & Casino, Chart House offers fine dining seafood and steaks to those in the Lake Charles area.

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